May 11, 2008

Roadtrippin’ Through South-West England This Summer

August 21st, 2007 by Pia Taylor

Southern Extreme Tour

I’ve always wanted to go to Cornwall. Neolithic standing stones of various shapes and sizes, moody Cornish coastlines, super-sugary double-clotted cream fudge – what’s not to like?

It’s a land of myth and mystery, complete with Arthurian and Atlantean legend (and then some), and the scenery so vividly portrayed by Daphne du Maurier in her fabulous Cornish novels.

So when UK-based Roadtrip Tours offered me a place on their Southern Extreme Tour, a 5-day backpacker bus tour of south-west England, I leapt at the opportunity.

Southern Extreme Tour

Roadtrip Tours offers a variety of backpacker-style bus tours around the UK, teaming up with similarly-minded companies to cover trips to Scotland, Wales and Ireland. Tours vary from simple sightseeing day tours to mammoth 19-day expeditions around the UK.

Right, so, early one Monday morning, not so long ago, I met the tour bus at a central London location (near Great Portland St) and off we scampered (perhaps not the best word, considering the deplorable state of London’s central city traffic, but it shall suffice) heading on out into the beautiful countryside that lies beyond the smog.

It was a jam-packed tour. During the course of the 5 jam-packed days we saw (and this is a very condensed list): the city of Bath and its steamy Roman Baths, the moody and mysterious Avebury Stone Circles, towering Glastonbury Tor and the ruined abbey below, the wind-whipped ruins of Tintagel, the impressive giant biodomes of the Eden Project, a series of atmospheric neolithic stone monuments in the middle of open fields and the unbelievably picturesque seaside town of St Ives.

Southern Extreme Tour

We wandered along the blustery Cornish coast to Lands End (past a forlorn shipwreck), watched an evening performance of Carmen at the impressive cliffside-clinging Minack Theatre, had our fill of double-clotted cream ice cream at Wide-Combe-On-Moore, in the middle of misty Dartmoor, and joined the throngs of tourists gaping at Stonehenge.

Everywhere we went, Ed, our wonderfully enthusiastic (and well informed) local guide, gave us the scoop on what was what, shared his rather eclectic knowledge of the myths and legends that abound in that neck of the woods and, more practically, let us know the best place to find cheap food whenever we stopped for lunch.

We always had enough time to explore the places we visited, and got a good deal of healthy fresh air to keep us energised (nothing worse than being stuck in a bus all day).

Southern Extreme Tour

Our hostels were pre-booked, so all we had to do at the end of each day was collect our roomcards, dump our luggage and head out to explore before we all ate dinner together.

I had so much fun! My fellow Roadtrippers were full of beans and responded well to our guide’s quirky sense of humour, and by the end of the 5 days, I have to say I was rather sad to say goodbye.

What I liked most about the tour:

  • The informal nature of the trip, stopping off and having time to do our own thing (I like being able to wander randomly, and absorb the feel of a place, instead of being led everywhere by a guide).
  • The small size of the group (that isn’t a given, though, seeing as that particular bus can hold 16 ‘trippers, and they do have larger buses)
  • I made friends. Going on a tour like this one makes for an informal and fun setting for meeting new people, and making new friends. If you’re travelling alone, this is a great way to hook up with possible travel buddies.

Southern Extreme Tour

There were a few things that bothered me, I’ll admit. One is the disparity between the various itineraries. On their website was one version, on the printed brochures another, and the one emailed after making the booking contained yet another version.

Similar, but not the same, and I think they should be standardised, to avoid unnecessary confusion (and possible disappointment).

Same applies to the kitty system. Right at the start of the tour, you hand over an amount to the driver, to cover sundries like dinners and hostels. Once paid, that should be it – I don’t think one should be asked to add to it half way through the tour, but that’s what happened.

It was a paltry sum, to be sure, in the scheme of things, but when you’re a backpacker, counting every possible penny (especially in pricey places like the UK), those few extra pounds dig into the budget and can tend to make you a little resentful.

But, those are rather minor niggles, really. Overall I would most definitely recommend the tour to backpackers looking to spend some time exploring England’s beautiful south-west corner.

Roadtrip’s Southern Extreme costs £119.00 + kitty (around £123). The kitty covers breakfasts, dinners, hostels and certain entrance fees. Tours depart from central London every second Monday.

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, Reviews | 2 Comments »

An Impromptu Review of Edinburgh’s Smart City Hostel

August 14th, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Smart City Hostel - Edinburgh

It’s festival time in Scotland’s capital, and we’ve been checking out the scene.

Now, as we’ve mentioned before, Edinburgh is exceptionally busy at this time of year, and finding accommodation ain’t always easy, especially on weekends. We booked some time in advance, though, so we were sorted.

But, because we weren’t going to be in the city all the time, we’d booked ourselves into a few different hostels, for the different time-frames (before and after our Haggis Adventures Compass Buster Tour – review coming soon!).

The newly opened Smart City Hostel, on Blackfriars Street (seconds away from Edinburgh’s main drag, the Royal Mile), was very close to our early morning pickup point, so we booked ourselves in for the night before the tour (allowing us to make our bleary crack-of-dawn way to the tour without too much hassle).

The plan was to check into another hostel when we got back, but we liked Smart City so much that we decided to try our luck and find out if they had space. They did, perhaps because they’re new, so we booked ourselves some rooms , and cancelled our other bookings forthwith.

So, here’s why we think it’s so great:

  • It’s new, so everything is shiny and bright, and virtually unsullied by backpacker hands (so far!).
  • There’s free high speed internet, and free wifi that we can access from our bedroom (bonus!)
  • The facilities: in our 8-bed dorm, there are two showers, and two toilets (no shuffling down the passage trying to stay vaguely decent). Not only that, but you get a large towel, and there are soap and handcream dispensers and even hairdryers for the girls.
  • It’s very well situated, just off the Royal Mile (HIgh St), but somehow manages to be quieter than hostels nearer pubs and clubs (one must get one’s beauty sleep from time to time, wot)
  • Multiple power points. Now, this may seem silly, but after having to fight over access to power points for some time now, it’s amazing to have plenty to go around.
  • Roomy lockers. There’s plenty of space, and two shelves, so you can safely stash all your goodies when you head out.

You do pay a wee bit more for a room here (our 8-bed dorm is £22 per night) – but once you’ve factored in the free internet, free towels and general facilities, it really is worth it.

Just to give you an idea of how pristine it really is, yesterday a Japanese girl came in to the room, gazed around in amazement, slowly approached her bed, muttering excitedly in her own language. She looked over, wide-eyed and said, “So clean! It’s so clean!”, and caressed her pillow lovingly.

Curious as to where she’d been before that was obviously so very different, we asked. With a wild and fearful look in her eye, she told us: London.

Check out Smart City’s virtual tour of the hostel for more info.

Travel resources backpackers might find useful:
Book hostels – book a hostel in Edinburgh (though you might have to go for walk in bookings at this late stage!
VisitScotland – official website for Scotland’s tourism
Travel Insurance – instant, cheap travel insurance for backpackers
Travel newsletter – sign up for our free monthly travel newsletter ‘From The Road’

Posted in Destinations, Festivals, From The Road, Hostels, Reviews | No Comments »

On The Road In Europe

July 31st, 2007 by Pia Taylor

So, the Backpackers Team is on the road in Europe – hence the increased quietness on the blog.

So much to do, so little time to write about it, wot wot.

So far, we have been on a fantastic tour of south west England (ie Cornwall, Devon etc) with Road Trip Tours, dashed off to the immense and rather muddy Global Gathering and hopped onto the Eurostar to Paris, and caught a Busabout Bus to Switzerland, where we are now exploring the picturesque Swiss Alps.

All of which we will write about in more detail as soon as we humanly possibly can (once we’re up to speed with the strange keyboards they have all over Europe!)

Happy travels!

Posted in From The Road, General Travel | No Comments »

Tales From The Road: Back Home - This Was India

May 2nd, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Holi

Several weeks have passed since I came back home to Switzerland after my month in India, and just being home has kept me so busy that it took me until now to write another article.

How I wish back the idle ‘backpacker-stress’, where getting from A to B, having a few beers and talking about the best beach in town is everything that fills your day. Well, the best way to kill the ‘back home hangover’ is to plan another trip – so I’ve just booked a flight to Bangkok in a few months’ time – and to enjoy every memory that you brought home from whatever place you’ve been makes coming home a lot more enjoyable.

Thinking of my days in India, I think of a lot of colours on the streets, especially during Holi. I think of intense smells, be it those of a great Masala or a cow shit in the middle of Bangalores busy streets, and I think of great people I met everywhere – backpackers and locals alike. I learned to appreciate everyday life a lot more again – if you can call a backpacker life that -because every step could be a tourist trap or the big adventure you’ll tell your grand-children about one day.

India

It’s not possible for me to pick a favourite place in India – every single place had its charm, be it the charm of a bustling city like Bombay or Bangalore or the charm of a laidback village such as Hampi, or a beach like Varkala or Palolem.

This has definitely not been my last visit to India, there’s still the whole north to see, and I haven’t seen the west coast either, and let’s not even talk about all the food I haven’t tasted yet. I’ll be back!

My favourite resources for planning my trip:
– Flights: eBookers.com
– Travel Blogs: Travelblog.org
– Photos: Flickr.com
– General Info: Lonely Planet

See Dominik’s photos from India here

Related entries:
Tales From The Road: Getting Around in India – Inner City Transport
Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness
Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India
Tales From The Road: Beach Bums In Goa
Tales From The Road: Getting Around in India – Trains, Buses, Flights

Ed’s Note: Dominik went on a month-long backpacking trip earlier this year. He wrote a series of articles from the road and we hope he’ll write again on his next trip! If you’d like to be a contributor to our from the road series, get in touch and let us know what you’re up to, and where you are.

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, Travel Tips & Planning | 1 Comment »

Tales From The Road: Getting Around in India - Inner City Transport

March 15th, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Indian transport - Photo by Guy-Claude Portmann

There are many way to make your way around India’s busy cities.

The most evident would probably be the black-and-yellow auto rickshaw taxis – they’re cheap, and you’ll definitely never ever have trouble to find one, since they’re everywhere – thousands of them.

It’s a lot of fun to cruise around in these pollution-exhausting three-wheeled vehicles, at least if you’re after an adventure. For those who are looking for a bit more security, though, there are also proper taxi cabs in most places.

Another option is local buses, which will take you almost every place within a city that’s of interest to a traveler.

While rickshaws are cheap, local buses are dirt-cheap, though not quite as much fun. A forty minute bus ride can cost as little as seven rupees – plus, it’s a good way to get into touch with locals.

Indian transport - Photo by Karen Rennie

My favorite way of getting around, however, is on foot. It can take a lot more time (which backpackers usually have plenty of anyway), but you see so much more if you don’t rush through main streets and instead try finding your way through narrow alleys.

That way, you’re sure to find plenty of things that aren’t in any guidebook – and the good thing is, should you ever get lost, there’s always a rickshaw around the corner that will bring you home.

Related entries:
‘Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness’
‘Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India’

Useful related resources for backpackers:
Lonely Planet Transport Guide – a travellers’ guide to transport into and around India
IndiaMike – online community for India travelers, and your resource for researching and discussing travel in India with others just like you
Hostels in India – find and book cheap hostels at special discounted online rates.
Cheap travel insurance for backpackers – get a free insurance quote and make sure you’re covered.

(Photos by Guy-Claude Portmann and Karen Rennie)

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, Transport, Travel Tips & Planning | No Comments »

Tales From The Road: Getting Around in India - Trains, Buses, Flights

March 12th, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Indian train - Photo by Mark Karstad

One of the essential parts of traveling is, naturally, getting from one place to another. Transport in India is very cheap, though not always very easy.

The three most popular ways to travel longer distances are trains, buses and flights.

In most cases, and where there are services, trains come in handy. The hardest part can be getting a ticket, what with all the classes (someone once calculated there are up to thirteen different classes on Indian trains) and the general mayhem at reservation offices.

I’ve found that sleeper class is convenient enough – during the day, you have a seat, and at night the seats are converted to beds. Try to get an upper bed whenever possible, since they can also be used to sleep comfortably during the day, and at night you have the most privacy.

To avoid awfully long queues at train station reservation offices, first check if there is a credit card or a tourist counter (there is rarely a queue). If nothing helps, there are always travel agencies that will be happy to get you a ticket – for a service charge, of course.

During peak season or Indian holidays, trains on popular routes are likely to be fully booked for days in advance, even in the more expensive air-conditioned classes. If that’s the case, you’ll probably have to switch to buses.

Road to Jaipur - Photo by Mike Snell

Buses can be even cheaper than trains, even though prices for the most luxurious ones (“Volvo class”) can compete with AC class fares on trains.

On routes with bad streets, though, buses can get very bumpy. Most buses require a reservation, and an “enquiry booth” will help you find the right bus in the chaos a bus station can be.

The most expensive option to get from A to B is flying. The cheapest carrier in India to date is Air Deccan, which covers most major routes. In my opinion, flying isn’t really backpacking, but it can be convenient in order to avoid backtracking or forty-hour train rides.

I personally like train rides the most – not only are they not as bumpy as bus rides, they also allow you to get in contact with locals. Plus, hanging out of an open train door while the train is riding is great fun!

Ed’s Note: This post is not a stand-alone, it’s the fifth in an ongoing series, written from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for the next update on Dominik’s adventures in India.

Related entries:
‘Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness’ (Backpackers.com)
‘Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India’ (Backpackers.com)

Useful related resources for backpackers:
Lonely Planet Transport Guide – a travellers’ guide to transport into and around India
IndiaMike – online community for India travelers, and your resource for researching and discussing travel in India with others just like you
Hostels in India – find and book cheap hostels at special discounted online rates.
Cheap travel insurance for backpackers – get a free insurance quote and make sure you’re covered.

(Photos by Mark Karstad and Mike Snell)

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, General Travel, Travel Tips & Planning | No Comments »

Tales From The Road: Happy Holi

March 6th, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Hampi is, like all of India, a place of stark contrasts. One moment you hate it, and the next moment you love it.

Holi Festival of Colours, Hampi, India - Photo by Ben Silbermann

This place really is a tourist trap, filled with dozens of restaurants, guest houses, souvenir shops and travel agencies. Then again, there are the terrific surroundings – awesome landscapes with thousands of boulders piled up and dozens of ancient temples. Most of them were built between the thirteenth and the sixteenth century when the Vijayanagar empire, whose capital was Hampi, had its peak time.

We couldn’t have possibly hit a better time to be here in Hampi – Holi is on, the Hindu ceremony to celebrate the end of winter. Not that there was much snow to be melted anyway, but now the really hot season starts.

Holi is celebrated during two days.

The first day, bonfires are burning on the streets, then drummers come in. They walk through the alleys of Hampi Bazaar while more and more people join in and dance in ecstasy.

Holi Festival of Colours, Hampi, India - Photo by Dolly

Then the second day, war is on – paint war. Whenever you set foot out of the guest house, you can be sure to be covered in pink, green, orange, red and whatever hues the paint stalls sell. Not to forget the occasional egg smashed on your head, of course.

A local told me today that you have to stay either three hours, three days or three months in Hampi. Since I don’t have three months to spare, three days are just about right to get an idea of what this place is about. Next stop: Bangalore.

Ed’s Note: This post is not a stand-alone, it’s the fourth in an ongoing series, written from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for the next update on Dominik’s adventures in India.

Related stories:
‘Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness’ (Backpackers.com)
‘Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India’ (Backpackers.com)

Useful related resources for backpackers:
World66.com Hampi Travel Guide – a travellers’ guide to Hampi
Wikitravel – travel info for Hampi
Hostels in India – find and book cheap hostels at special discounted online rates.
Cheap travel insurance for backpackers – get a free insurance quote and make sure you’re covered.

(Photos by Ben Silbermann/Flickr and Dolly/Flickr)

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, General Travel | 4 Comments »

Tales From The Road: Beach Bums In Goa

March 1st, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Palolem Beach, Goa, India - Photo by James Thornett

Beach Bums

If there was an award for paradise, you’d most likely find Palolem Beach in Goa on the list of nominees. While Lonely Planet, the backpackers’ bible, describes this place as idyllic and upcoming in its 2005 edition, apparently it did a few big steps up the development ladder in the meantime. There’s everything here that beach bums could ask for – a huge beach, wooden shacks with sea view for 200 rupees a night, cheap Kingfisher beer and live music performances. And, there’s a shack with a “Tatooest” sign as well – think twice though if you want to wear a spelling mistake for the rest of your life.

The crowd that Palolem attracts seems to be quite diverse. Mostly young backpackers (some staying for months according to their tan) fill the bars at night, but there are also ageing hippies and tourists from all over India, some of them to spot western girls in small bikinis. And, of course all these beach sellers who are trying their luck, one of them as an “ear shampooer”.

Palolem Beach, Goa, India - Photo by Kevin Sorbo

Beach life is amazing. You’re not really doing anything except for reading loads of books (Holy Cow by Sarah MacDonald is one of the most popular right now), laying on the beach and swimming in the water whenever it gets too hot, and of course eating delicious Indian food and sampling local culture – local beer culture. Yet, in the evening you’ll hear a lot of voices complaining about how exhausting beach life is. And it really is, I’ll need at least a few days to recover – on the beach.

Ed’s Note: This post is not a stand-alone, it’s the third in an ongoing series, written from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for the next update on Dominik’s adventures in India.

Related stories:
‘Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness’ (Backpackers.com)
‘Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India’ (Backpackers.com)

Useful related resources for backpackers:
Hostels in Goa – find and book cheap hostels at special discounted online rates.
Cheap travel insurance for backpackers – get a free insurance quote and make sure you’re covered.

(Photos by James Thornett/Flickr and Kevin Sorbo/Flickr)

Posted in From The Road, Travel Tips & Planning | No Comments »

Tales From The Road: Mumbai Madness

February 26th, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Mumbai Cityscape, India - Photo by 'guy_incognito'

Mumbai Madness

Imagine arriving in India. Imagine yourself after ten hours on a plane and zero hours of sleep. And, on top of all, imagine you brought no cash, only a credit card that doesn’t seem to work. Stupid me, welcome to Mumbai!

This was the first time I was happy about a tout – he way overcharged me for a hotel in the outskirts, but at least he would let me pay after a good night’s sleep. A local bus brought me to Colaba a day later, the quarter in Mumbai where tourists, sights and sellers seem to gather. I found a guesthouse for a pretty good price of 250 rupees, even though it’s a windowless shoebox.

As exciting as Mumbai is, I’m more of a beach person, and Goa is close – by Indian measures. A night train will get me there. But first, the ticket had to be earned, which means some paperwork, some queuing and a lot of refusing touts, since a sign in the train station says: “A ticket bought from a tout is a ticket to jail.” The next train to with free places will leave on Friday – Goa, I’m coming!

Ed’s Note: This post is not a stand-alone, it’s the second in a series, written from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for the next update. coming soon.

Useful related resources for backpackers:
Hostels in Mumbai and Goa – find and book cheap hostels at special discounted online rates.
Cheap travel insurance for backpackers – get a free insurance quote and get covered.

(Photo by ‘guy_incognito’/Flickr)

Posted in From The Road, Travel Tips & Planning | No Comments »

Tales From The Road: Planning A Trip To India

February 22nd, 2007 by The Backpackers Team

Guest post by Dominik von Werdt

Food in Rajastan, India - Photo by Dirk Huijssoon

Getting there is half the fun

Besides the desire to meet new people, cultures and experiences, two things are essential for a proper backpacker – a lot of time and a little money. I happen to have a four week break from university starting mid-February, and some money’s left on my bank account as well. What better thing than backpacking could I possibly do!

The first things that come to mind when I think of India are food, beaches, temples and streets filled with people – reason enough for a visit.

A year ago, I did an extended trip around the world with a focus on Thailand and Laos, but I didn’t have enough time left for India. I learned two things about myself back then: I love exotic places that really hit you in the face when you arrive, and I don’t like tight schedules. I guess India qualifies for the first.

It’s impossible to ‘see’ India in a month, even if bustling from tourist attraction to tourist attraction sounds like fun to you. I’ll rather stick to a few places, soak up the experience and see where it gets from there.

Relief, Mahabodhi Temple - Photo by Hideyuki KAMON

To make sure that I make the best out of my four weeks in India, it’s important for me to know a bit of what to expect, and the Internet is an amazing resource for that.

I love those nights in front of my computer, searching the Internet for stories of people who’ve already had their great experiences in India, and browsing through photos on Flickr.

To me, personal recommendations matter a lot more than guidebooks, and bonfire pictures give me a better impression of a place than travel agency posters. After a couple of these so-called ‘anticipation nights’, I know roughly where I want to go and which places I can leave out without missing too much.

My favourite resources for planning my trip:
– Flights: eBookers.com
– Travel Blogs: Travelblog.org
– Photos: Flickr.com
– General Info: Lonely Planet

( Photos: ‘Food in Rajastan, India’ by Dirk Huijssoon, ‘Mahabodhi Temple’ by Hideyuki KAMON )

Ed’s Note: This post is not a stand-alone, it’s the first in a series, written from the road. Keep your eyes peeled for next week’s update on Mumbai Madness.

Posted in Destinations, From The Road, General Travel, Travel Tips & Planning, Travel Tools | 4 Comments »